MICROPOWER LINEAR PWM:
Pulse width modulators are a fundamental building block. Among other things, they are used for remote sensing, DC motor control, and switch-mode power supply controllers.
This circuit uses a rail-to-rail OpAmp to linearize the pulse width of the classic, dual 555 Pulse Width Modulator. The first timer is set to run as a 10Khz oscillator. The square wave output from this section is latched by the D Flip Flop. The Q output then triggers the second 555 timer which is acting as a one-shot. The output pulse clears the latch (which allows output pulses shorter than the trigger width) and is also integrated by the combination of R4 and C6. This integrated, or averaged signal is compared to the input voltage on the OpAmp. The OpAmp will drive the control voltage of the one-shot until the average voltage of the output is equal to the input voltage.
HOT WATER LEVEL INDICATOR
A simple device to indicate various levels of hot water in a tank.
Notes
Save fuel bills and the economy of the planet with this circuit. SW1 is a normally open press button switch which allows you to view the level of hot water in a hot water tank. When pressed the voltage difference at the junction of the thermistor and preset is compared to the fixed voltage on the op-amps non-inverting input. Depending on the heat of the water in the tank, the thermistors resistance will toggle the op-amp output to swing to almost full voltage supply and light the appropriate LED.
Construction
Masking tape was used to stick the bead thermistors to the tank. Wires were soldered and insulated at the thermistors ends. A plastic box was used to house the circuit. Battery life will probably be 4 to 5 years depending on how often you use the push switch, SW1.
Sensor Placement
Thermistors NTC1-4 should be spread evenly over the height of the tank. I placed NTC1 roughly 4 inches from the top of my tank and the others were spaced evenly across the height of the hot water tank. As hot water rises the lowest sensor indicates the fullest height of hot water and should be about 8 to 10 inches from the bottom of the tank.
Calibration
With a full tank of hot water adjust P1-4 so that all LED's are lit. As hot water rises, the sensor at the bottom of the tank will be the maximum level of hot water. "Hot" can be translated as 50C to 80C the presets P1-4 allow adjustment of this range.
Parts
I have used a quad version of the LM324 but any quad opamp can be used or even four single op-amps.
R2-R5 I used 330ohm resistors, but value is not critical. Lower values give brighter LED output.
NTC1-4 The thermistors maximum resistance must roughly equal the resistance of the fixed resistor and preset. As negative temparature coefficient (NTC) thermistors are used, then their resistance decreases for increases in temperature. I used a thermistor from theMaplin Catalogue. Cold resistance was around 300K, hot resistance 15k. Alternative thermistors may be used with different resistance ranges, but the presets P1 to P4 must also be changed as well.
R7-10 series resistance, only required if your thermistors resistance is several ohms at the hottest temperature.
P1 - P4 Chosen to match the resistance of the thermistor when cold.
R1 & R6. These resistors are equal and bias the op-amp inverting input to half the supply voltage. I used 100k.
4 DIGIT ALARM KEYPAD
This is an enhanced 4 digit keypad which may be used with the Modular Alarm System.
Notes
The Keypad must be the kind with a common terminal and a separate connection for each key. On a 12-key pad, look for 13 terminals. The matrix type with 7 terminals will NOT do. The Alarm is set by pressing a single key. Choose the key you want to use and wire it to 'E'. Choose the four keys you want to use to switch the alarm off, and connect them to 'A B C & D'. Your code can include the non-numeric symbols. With a 12-key pad, over 10 000 different codes are available. Wire the common to R1 and all the remaining keys to 'F'. When 'E' is pressed, current through D2 and R9 switches Q5 on. The relay energises, and then holds itself on by providing base current for Q5 through R10. The 12-volt output is switched from the "off " to the "set " terminal, and the LED lights. To switch the Alarm off again it is necessary to press A, B, C & D in the right order. The IC is a quad 2-input AND gate, a Cmos 4081. These gates only produce a high output when both inputs are high. Pin 1 is held high by R5. This 'enables' gate 1, so that when 'A' is pressed, the output at pin 3 will go high. This output does two jobs. It locks itself high using R2 and it enables gate 2 by taking pin 5 high. The remaining gates operate in the same way, each locking itself on through a resistor and enabling its successor. If the correct code is entered, pin 10 will switch Q4 on and so connect the base of Q5 to ground. This causes Q5 to switch off and the relay to drop out. Any keys not wired to 'A B C D or E' are connected to the base of Q3 by R7. Whenever one of these 'wrong' keys is pressed, Q3 takes pin 1 low. This removes the 'enable' from gate 1, and the code entry process fails. If 'C' or 'D' is pressed out of sequence, Q1 or Q2 will also take pin 1 low, with the same result. You can change the code by altering the keypad connections. If you need a more secure code use a bigger keypad with more 'wrong' keys wired to 'F'. A 16-key pad gives over 40 000 different codes. All components are shown lying flat on the board; but some are actually mounted upright. The links are bare copper wires on the component side. Two of the links must be fitted before the IC.
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